In traditional souks we met the sellers of spices and vegetables of every kind, as well as iPhones and Haagen-Dazs….
Beyond the spice shops and restaurants and holy sites, though, this is also Occupied Palestine…. I saw things that reminded me of the difficulties in Banja Luka, Tijuana, and Kirkuk. A new art gallery illustrates decades of resistance to occupation, and I anticipated decades more. But the graffiti on the Palestinian side of The Wall – peace doves, Trump satire, pizza ads – chronicles desperate, ironic, yet hopeful Palestinians. It was fascinating to me that many of the Palestinians I met were not pessimistic.
Instead, they told me to look at Northern Ireland, South Africa, the Berlin Wall….